Koh Chang Ranong Travel Guide (2024)

After spending 5 weeks in Thailand, I knew I wanted to end my trip well… but I wasn’t sure exactly where. At first, I thought about going to Koh Lanta, then Koh Phra Thong, and then Koh Jum.

But in the end, I chose Koh Chang Ranong.

As one of the least developed islands in the entire country, it provided a bit of secluded magic most people would have assumed was only possible with a time machine. 

Facing Myanmar and neighboring the more popular Koh Phayam, it’s somehow avoided the curse of mass tourism.

And while the digital age may make it a *bit* different from those glory days, the long-termers I met assured me this was about as close as one could get.

This is an island with no 7/11s, no luxury resorts, and minimal amenities. More roads are dirt than concrete, and we continued to hear that it hadn;t changed much in decades.

So basically: it was perfect.

But when I set out to (last minute) plan my trip to the “little” Koh Chang as it’s often called, I couldn’t find much recent info in the way of online travel guides.

So now I’m about to change that for those of you lucky enough to have heard about this paradise through the grapevine.

Here’s everything you need to know (and then some) about visiting Koh Chang Ranong, one of Thailand’s last untouched islands.

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Who Should Visit Koh Chang Ranong?

First up: some housekeeping.

I’ll be blunt: this island is NOT for everyone. And that’s what’s kept it from becoming a tropical version of Disney World like Phuket and Koh Phi Phi. 

There are no parties. No Western restaurants. No 5-star resorts or boatloads of activities. And it certainly isn’t kid-friendly either. 

But for those looking for a real taste of island life before the investors came and (cough destroyed cough) nearly every piece of Thailand’s south, this is THE place for you. It reminded me a bit of Don Det in Laos, but with much better beaches and even LESS western development.

The majority of travelers you’ll meet here are retirees who’ve been visiting since their hippie trail days. Many stay for months, lazing away in simple but stunning beach bungalows that look like something out of a dream. Though there are a *few* motorbikes to rent, most opt to walk around the relatively small island, which is still almost completely filled with forest. 

A time capsule of sorts, Koh Chang Ranong is for those who don’t need or want amenities, but are seeking the type of Thailand experience that’s all but disappeared by way of concrete. 

When to Visit Koh Chang Ranong 

While some Thai islands can be visited almost year-round – my first trip to the south of the country was in June 2018 – that does NOT apply to Koh Chang!

Ranong is known to be the WETTEST province in the Kingdom. Locals told me that it starts raining in April and doesn’t really stop until November.

Most people head out during that season, including local business owners. My taste of paradise took place in early January and it couldn’t have possibly been more perfect. Daily sunshine and low humidity made for an ideal 7 days.

Your window of opportunity is pretty short, but it’s worth planning for: December – March! 

How to Get to Koh Chang Ranong

Situated off of Thailand’s west coast, you’ll first need to make your way to the cute coastal town of Ranong before catching a boat out to the island.

Approximately 9-10 hours south of Bangkok, I absolutely loved Ranong – aside from on the boats, we hardly saw other foreigners while perusing about town. It’s definitely worth a full day to check out the night markets and such, especially if you’re into immersive travel like I am. 

You then have two options: the speedboat or the wooden slow boat. Speed boats (which take about 30 minutes) cost 350 Baht/per person and run just about every hour until 5 PM, whereas the slow boat (you’re looking at a 1.5 hour trip) only heads out at 9AM and 4 PM and costs 200 Baht.

If you happen to arrive and find all boats are full (this happened to me around Christmas time), longtail charters cost about 3000 Baht. Not too bad if you find others to split costs… 

Where to Stay in Ranong 

I LOVED Ranong and absolutely want to spend more time there. It’s a real taste of Thai life without the touristy vibes and inflated prices.

With some fantastic night markets and foodie options, I’d say be sure to give it a good 24 hours before hitting the sea or heading elsewhere. It’s a particularly great place to put your camera to use if you have one!

Here’s where to stay… Just keep in mind that public transport is BARELY existent, so you’re going to want to base yourself in the Old Town unless you’ve got your own vehicle. 

• Tanatnan Hotel – This is where we stayed, and everything about the place was great! A HUGE room with an attached balcony, AC, and a mini mart connected to the reception area. The only downside is it was pretty far from most attractions in the city, and with no Grab/Bolt around, taxis are EXPENSIVE.
• A Day Inn Ranong Hostel – Lowkey where we wish we stayed, this top-rated hostel is right in the center of the old city. While it looks like a boutique hotel, there are dorm options too all at unmatched prices.

Getting to Koh Chang from Koh Phayam

You can also reach this island paradise by way of Koh Phayam, which is just 30 minutes away and can be seen from some of Koh Chang’s Beaches. 

This what what I did – you can easily book your ticket from the Koh Phayam pier. Unfortunately, it’s not any cheaper as the boat is technically headed back to Ranong, it just makes a stop on the way. Just MAKE SURE you know your exact travel dates – we had a slight issue to come up and they refused to refund us. 

Where to Stay on Koh Chang Ranong 

One thing I absolutely loved about this place is that literally all accommodation comes in the form of seaside bungalows, either right on the sand or hidden in the trees.

Here are some of the best on the island:

Lae Tawan Bungalows (Ao Deng)

Y’all this was the Thailand beach paradise I had always dreamed of… I mean just look at it. The bungalows are raised and are far more spacious than other wooden ones I’ve seen and had the most ideal view of the Andaman Sea.

The only negative thing for any fellow digital nomads out there is that Wi-Fi is pretty weak and none of Thailand’s 5G networks have made it to this beach yet. But Wi-Fi does work somewhat in the on-site cafe (primarily during the day.) Prices are technically 700-800 baht/night but we managed to bargain a bit of a discount since we stayed a week. Expect to pay 100 Baht for a tuk-tuk ride from the pier. 

Sunset Bungalows (Long Beach)

Located right on Long Beach – the longest and “busiest” beach on Koh Chang, I spent several days working from Sunset’s awesome cafe in between dips in the water. Both Wi-Fi and AIS data worked pretty well here, and you’ll also be near several lowkey beach bars and a mini mart. Prices range from 600-800 Baht. 

Mama’s Bungalows (Ao Daeng)

Also on the incredible Ao Daeng, Mama’s is another superb bungalow option consisting of wooden mini huts that are so cozy you’ll never want to leave.

Another major plus is Mama’s Cafe – we ate there almost daily, and you’ll find dozens of choices from Thai, to seafood, to German cuisine favorites. Wifi is available at the cafe, and depending on which bungalow you get, it may even work from your balcony.

Hornbill Bungalows

For those looking to REALLY get off the beaten path, look no further than Hornbill Bungalows. As they’re not really near anything, you’ll truly be secluded AF if you stay out here. Just keep in mind that the road is not great and you’ll be pretty far from anything else on the island.

And those are just a few! While it’s FAR, FAR AWAY from being overcrowded, there are more bungalows to choose from throughout the island, all with very similar prices. As mentioned, I’m super partial to Ao Daeng, but if you NEED 24/7 access to the internet, you can’t go wrong with Ao Lek or Long Beach! 

Green Banana Bungalows (Ao Lek)

This road truly made me feel like I was back in South Asia instead of SEA. We’re talking fully dirt, and teeming with untamed plant life. I actually would only recommend experienced motorbikers to attempt it, as tuktuks are available too.

But anyhow, the remoteness of Green Banana was truly something to behold. The beach right in front was swimmable, and the food was fantastic. Prices are, again, 700-800 Baht and surprisingly this place had insanely good AIS 5G, so it’s ideal for remote workers. 

What to Do on Koh Chang Ranong 

While you won’t find any famous Asian landmarks here, you will find the textbook definition of chill.

1. Visit ALL the island’s beaches 

Though a quick glance at the map may lead you to believe there’s just one beach, that’s not the case. Here are all the beaches you can swim or chill at on Koh Chang: 

• Long Beach: A stunning stretch of sand that makes up most of the island’s coastline. You’ll find calm water, and plenty of super chill beach bars, restaurants and bungalows.
   
• Ao Daeng: The lovely secluded cove that I simply did not want to leave. Ao Daeng was everything I dreamed of when I imagined an off-the-beaten-path beach in Thailand. I’m so glad fate led us to spend a week there instead of heading down south to Koh Lanta as we originally planned. 
  
• Ao Lek: Remote, a bit rocky, and also where a pretty sick reggae fest was held at the beginning of 2024, Ao Lek is not just one of the chillest beaches not just on the island, but in the entire country. 
  
• Ao Ko Kiang: One of the least visited beaches on the island, Ao Ko Kiang is on the Northwest coast and has a few remote bungalows around it. It’s a good place to get into some paddling.

2. Go kayaking 

Many bungalows have rentals – usually for prices around 400-500 Baht for a few hours. Paddle around an individual beach or meander between beaches – the choice is yours! 

3. Take a walk through the rubber forests 

Koh Chang is no doubt one of the least developed out of all Thailand’s islands.

Locals have refused outside investment (something I simply love to see) which has led to authentic, simple establishments and plenty of untouched forest land. This is the Thailand that existed in the 1970s and has mostly disappeared by way of concrete resorts. Soak it ALL in. 

4. Check out the Sunday Market 

The delicious Sunshine Cafe hosts a market every Sunday starting around 2. You’ll find unique things to buy, and sometimes some musical performances too. 

5. Have a drink at the Tsunami Bar 

Or a cheeky smoke ;) The setting and vibes of this place were so on point – they also have very cheap bungalows for rent, though do book early as regulars often stay 3-4 months at a time. 

6. Visit the Moken Gypsy Village

Deep in the jungle on the northwest tip of the island is where you’ll find a local community of indigenous villagers who live completely off the sea. Their homes are on stilts and they’ve survived off of fishing for centuries. The village can ONLY be reached by foot through a overgrown jungle path or by way of boat / kayak! 

Bars and Restaurants on Koh Chang Ranong 

Don’t expect a huge selection – out of the five offbeat islands we visited, this one undoubtedly had the least amount of food options. BUT rest assured that you can still eat good for relatively cheap. 

• Sunshine Cafe: Massive, delicious portions of Thai food situated right in the center of the main road. Just know they DO close early, like we’re talking 8 is too late! 

• Baan Suan: We ate here a few times for tasty, flavorful, and cheap Thai faves. Also on the main road away from the coast, it’s just about neighboring Sunshine. 

• Mama’s: This was no doubt our go-to because it was right next to our bungalow, but it has some seriously delicious options (both Thai and German) and a priceless view overlooking the sea. 

• Tsunami Bar: Immaculate Rasta vibes filled with surreal seating arrangements and swaying trees. It’s also the best place on the island to grab some quality weed, which in case you missed it is in fact legal all throughout Thailand 😎

FAQ’s About Koh Chang Ranong

A few more commonly asked questions about the best island in Thailand…

Finals Thoughts on Visiting Koh Chang Ranong

This is truly the last paradise of Thailand that all those lucky hippies of the 1960s-1980s got to experience first-hand. What you miss out on in the way of 7-11s, Western restaurants, and other bougie amenities, you will gain in raw, untouched island vibes that have all but died out. 

Koh Chang gave me one of the most amazing weeks of my life, and I quickly saw why up to 80% of visitors are regulars who have now been hitting up this sweet, sweet secret for decades. 

I hope you feel a bit more prepared considering most information about Koh Chang Ranong is pretty ancient … just don’t be surprised if you never want to leave!