A travel guide to Don Det , Laos for those looking to visit one of the 4,000 river islands of this landlocked nation.
Tucked within Si Phan Don, which is Lao for “4,000 Islands,” lies the small, sleepy paradise of Don Det. Adjacent to the Mekong River, this little utopia is completely devoid of cars, completely full of hammocks, and the absolutely perfect place to relax, unwind and just… live.
It’s a far cry from the urban cityscape of Komtar in Penang, Malaysia– but that’s exactly WHY travelers seem to love this island: it’s a much-needed break from the hustle and bustle of Southeast Asia‘s lively cities.
While Laos is known for Southeast Asia’s party destination Vang Vieng and the unreal colors of Kuang Si Falls up north, Don Det and its twin island Don Khon have remained a bit of a secret in plain sight.
Maybe some find it too difficult to get to, or choose to forego it in favor of thriving nightlife, but for whatever reasons Don Det is ignored, it shouldn’t be!
Comprised of a mixture of hostel bungalows and rural villages, this 4 km long island is a backpacker’s paradise- perfect for both solo female travelers and couples alike!
This Don Det Travel guide gives you everything you need to know about backpacking and straight relaxin’ on Laos’ best-kept secret.
The Ultimate Guide to Don Det
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Where is Don Det?
Don Det is a river island in the most southern part of the country that should definitely be on your Laos travel guide. The small island is actually a part of Si Phan Don, which is a group of 4,000 river islands.
Though that may sound like a lot, many of those are small and thus uninhabitable by anything but small animals. Pakse is the closest city to Don Det, and the closest non-island town is Nakasang.
Don Det is also connected to a larger island, Don Khon, via a small bridge. All of the 4000 Islands lie in the Mekong River.
Best time to Visit Don Det
Don Det and the 4000 islands of Laos, like most of Southeast Asia, are hit hard by the monsoon come August, and stays pretty wet until at least November. In Fall 2018, southern Laos was pummeled by serious flooding, which even led to some evacuations.
So generally speaking, the best time to visit would be in the winter, with that sweet window of cloudless blue skies and pleasant temperatures open from around December – April/May.
Can’t make it during the winter? Fear not! We actually visited in early July and saw several days of sunny, warm weather- out of 7 days, only one was a washout.
Tip: visiting outside of the high season leads to lower prices and more rooms to choose from.
How to get to Don Det
By plane + bus:
Plane tickets in Laos or to Laos are FAR from cheap… or so we thought! While Lao Airlines is pricey (over $100 from Luang Prabang to Pakse), the lesser-known, small airline Lao Skyway is not to be missed.
Luang Prabang itself isn’t to be missed though!
For a bit over $30, save yourself the struggle of a 12+ hour bus ride and instead take the 45-minute flight from Vientiane to Pakse, which is the jumping-off point for the 4000 islands.
Based on the afternoon flight time of the route, you’ll likely have to stay the night in Pakse. Unlike other parts of Laos, Pakse is not very touristy- during our layover we didn’t see a single other foreigner around town. Many guesthouses dot the main strip – check prices in person to see which is cheapest.
If you’re down for an adventure before heading to Don Det, keep in mind that the Bolaven Plateau Loop– an epic bike-able journey through beautiful scenery, waterfalls and coffee plantations- starts from Pakse.
Mini-buses to Don Det run every morning at 8 AM. This can usually be booked the night before with one of the various travel agents in the “tourist” area (which is really just one block).
For 55,000 kip ($6.39), the minibusses take about 2.5 hours to reach Nakasang, a small village where you can then catch the wooden ferry over to Si Phan Don.
Ferry tickets are often included, but if not, they cost 15,000 kip ($1.74) at the small pier. The ride is super short- in less than 10 minutes you’ll arrive at river-island paradise.
Alternatively, local songthaews run hourly (starting at 8 am) from Pakse Southern Bus Station. While a bit less comfortable, this route will save you 5,000 kip.
By bus from Vientiane to Si Phan Don:
Looking to overland instead? Sleeper buses run from Vientiane to Pakse daily, and company options and ratings can be found here. Slated times say 10-12 hours, but this being Laos, be prepared for delays!
Don Det, Laos Accommodation
This tiny island is overflowing with lake-view bungalows, all for $5-$10! First things first though, you’re going to have to decide if you want a room on the sunset side of the island or the sunrise side.
While I’m a bit partial to the former, (Don Det’s sunsets are truly out of this world so can you blame me?) either option will surely do.
Since most guesthouses/ hostels are not able to be booked in advance you just gotta get what’s available, which might mean walking a bit farther along either side during high season.
Peruse around before settling- we were about to stay at one place and changed our minds last minute, which ended up being the best decision. While there’s dozens of accommodation choose from on Don Det, these three are great if they’re available.
Happy Bar Backpackers: This name couldn’t be more accurate. The Happy Bar is well known on the island, and so is its main employee Manni. With a few lakeside bungalows complete with personal hammocks, as well as two adjacent rooms with en-suite bathrooms, Happy has limited space so try to get to it quickly!
Due to its 420 friendly reputation, don’t be surprised to find yourself here even if staying elsewhere. (Hint: The river island “outing” is not to be missed!) Rates here were 55,000 kip in July.
Kea’s Backpackers Paradise: Kea’s is located right next to the Happy Bar and might even be better thanks to its incredible restaurant. (No joke this is the BEST pumpkin burger on the island… don’t worry you’ll find out what that is soon enough.)
Kea, the owner is a super friendly guy who definitely deserves your business! 40,000 kip will get you your own bungalow and hammock- it doesn’t get much better than this.
The Last Resort: A “resort” where each room is in an actual teepee, this place is definitely the most unique on the island. If you’re looking for a relaxed, hippie vibe away from the rest of the action, The Last Resort is for you.
A 20-minute walk from the main pier, this place sure has a nice sense of community if that’s something you’re looking for. Even in high season, it’s only $6/ night!
Where to Eat on Don Det
Don Det is filled with tons of fab food options. While you won’t find any street food here, the out of the world pumpkin burgers certainly make up for it. These are a specialty of the island and made from the rock pumpkin, which grows locally, and can’t be found anywhere else.
Seafood, western, and Desi dishes can be found all around Don Det as well. And while most guesthouses tend to have their own kitchens, don’t leave without trying these incredible options
- Kea’s Backpackers Paradise & Bar- Kea’s is without a doubt home to the best pumpkin burger on the island. (No, this isn’t up for debate!) For only $3, you’ll get one of these delicacies and fries, and a superb view of the Mekong, I may add
- Hathim Indian Restaurant– When the rest of the island was out of the juicy fruit, Hathim’s always came through with fresh mango lassis. Located right on the main “strip,” expect to pay no more than $5 for a fresh, tasty Indian meal.
- Mama Tanon Cafe- Sitting right along the river, Mama’s is the place to be if you’re craving seafood. Their Mekong fish is amazing and only 26,000 kip ($3). Pumpkin burgers, vegan fare, and everything in between can be found here.
- Adam’s Bar and Restaurant – While the food here is average, Adam’s is known for providing greens other than vegetables if you catch my drift. Besides that, it’s also a chill spot to hangout, order smoothies and meet other travelers- so why not?
What to do on Don Det
While it’s easy to laze your days away on a hammock (and definitely recommended), this slow island has more to offer than just eating and swinging! Don Det is definitely the type of place where you’ll actually read that book or Kindle that you had on your Southeast Asia packing list.
A lot of these activities are actually on Don Khon, another member of Si Phan Don that’s connected to Don Det by what’s known as the French Bridge. While some reports exist of having to pay to cross the bridge, in July 2018 this luckily wasn’t the case.
Rent bikes and explore the island
Don Det is one of the few places without even a single car, and while most of SE Asia is filled to the brim with motorbikes, even those are hard to find here.
The best way to get around? Good, old fashioned bicycles. Easily rentable for 10,000 kip ($1.20!) this is by far the best way to see the island.
Coast along the dirt paths and find yourself immersed in a sea of villages and farmlands! While the bikes aren’t the best quality for the rocky roads, I find them to be the most relaxing and fun way to get to know a place.
I would recommend avoiding riding at night, as there are no street lights on either Don Det or Don Khon and boy does it get DARK.
Float along the Mekong
One of my favorite travel memories is tubing along the Nam Song in Vang Vieng. (Which actually can be relaxing, once you leave the masses that is). There’s nothing quite like floating down a natural body of water as the sun pierces your skin.
Sadly, in July 2018, tubing had been closed down on Don Det for the season due to high currents, so while my dreams were crushed I guess that means I’ll have to come back.
So, if you want to get your float on, visit during high season- when tubes are easily rentable from many guesthouses and numerous spots in town. Expect to pay 10,000 kip ($1.20) for a tube.
Visit Li Phi (Somphamit ) Falls
These falls, located over the bridge on Don Khon, are massive. While not the largest in Laos, don’t underestimate the power and immense beauty that is Li Phi.
These falls are situated in a park of sorts with multiple stunning viewpoints, a river beach , swimming areas, and rocky areas to climb out onto for those looking to get a little bit adventurous.
The official price of entry is 35,000 kip ($4), but this (apparently) isn’t always enforced.
See the Irrawaddy Dolphins
Never heard of an Irrawaddy dolphin? I hadn’t either before coming to Don Det. This highly endangered species is dwindling- fast. As of December 2018, there were said to be only 92 left in the entire Mekong and not many others elsewhere.
How to see them? Take a bike ride all the way across the French Bridge, and all the way down to the very tip of Don Khon. When you come to a massive body of water, you’ll know you made it to the right place.
Prices can vary, but Charles and I were able to split the costs with another couple and ended up paying 40,000 kip ($5) each.
While the best time to spot these guys is during the low season (Jan-May) due to low water levels, we got super lucky in mid-July and spotted numerous dolphins from our boat, so you really never know.
Go on a boat trip with Manni Elavia
I already mentioned Happy Bar backpackers as a top place to stay… mostly because of its “owner,” (aka liaison) Manni. Even if you don’t get a spot at Happy, you’ll likely run into this guy or hear about him, and for good reason.
A true character who ditched a conventional lifestyle to permanently live on Don Det, Manni runs weekly (weather depending) boat tours to one of the mini islands that make up Si Phan Don.
Expect to participate in an obstacle course, drinking games, river swims, and maybe some origami-style joint rolling. This is truly an EXPERIENCE to be had, folks !
(Of course, anything “happy” is technically illegal in Laos, and we don’t condone such behavior, but do want to inform fellow travelers of what’s happenin’. Don’t do anything you’re not comfortable with, and know your limits.)
Watch the best sunset (perhaps ever)
The sunsets on Don Det are NO JOKE. I’m no stranger to golden hour, and I must say the way the sky lit up over the Mekong was truly unlike anything I’ve ever seen.
Maybe it has something to do with the clouds, or what’s in the atmosphere, but whatever it is, Don Det has got it going on.
Kea’s Bar and Happy Bar were two awesome spots to watch this show unfold, but surely any of the bungalows on the sunset side of the island will do!
How to leave Don Det
There are only two ways to head after leaving the 4000 islands- either north towards Pakse/ Vientiane or south into Cambodia. Regardless which direction you’re ultimately going, the way off the island will start the same: the 15,000 kip “ferry” back to Nakasong.
Be aware that certain onward travel tickets will include the ferry ride in the total price, while others might not. Ferries typically depart Don Det at 8 AM, so be prepared to wake up early.
Where you go next will depend on your particular route, but expect to wait around in Nakasang for a few hours regardless.
Nakasang to Pakse:
65,000 kip ($7.55) will get you a combined ferry + bus back to Pakse. Make sure you book this in advance and not the morning of!
Pakse to Siem Reap:
This is a common route many travelers take if they’re heading south. We chose to use Asia Van Transfer based off of reviews that it was the fastest. Nevertheless, the journey still ended up being a 12 hour affair. AVT costs $20 pp and eventually brings you to your desired accommodation in Siem Reap. But what does it look like?
Step 1 is a bus from Nakasang to the Lao-Cambodian border- expect to pay around 70,000 kip ($9) per person (a huge scam, to be quite honest) and make sure you’re alert and ready to board if you want a seat.
Step 2 As soon as you reach the border and go through Cambodian immigration, (which is nothing more than stamping your passport and paying the fee- not even a bag check!) you’ll find yourself huddled around with other travelers at some makeshift “restaurants” where you’ll wait for everyone else who has booked your bus.
Step 3 Once everyone in the group has crossed the border, AVT finally boards their buses and departs, making one stop for lunch along the way. We left Don Det at around 8:00 AM and didn’t arrive at our hotel until after 9:00 PM at night. And this was with no out of the ordinary delays!
Don Det: Know Before You Go
While the 4000 Islands are a beautiful travel destination and a great backpacker’s hub, it’s first and foremost home to many Lao people. Respect their land, their space and be friendly.
How would you feel if your island got bombarded by tourists and westernization? While tourism definitely provides some economic relief, that can’t completely negate the negative impacts we cause.
There are no ATMs on Don Det or Don Khon and everything is dependent on cash, so make sure you stock up in Pakse or Nakasang before you head over!
Cell phone service (Lao Telecom) isn’t the best, and wifi can go out or be unpredictable. (Hint: A great opportunity for some digital detox)
Hopefully this ultimate guide to backpacking Don Det did something to relieve you from some of your questions. Did something change? Have a dope recommendation? Leave a comment below!
Samantha is the founder of Intentional Detours. Originally from the USA, she’s been backpacking the world since 2017, and is passionate about slow, adventure travel that puts local communities first. She has visited 19 countries and has been living in the Karakoram Mountains of Asia’s Hunza Valley since 2021. She’s super passionate about helping people get off the beaten path anywhere (on a budget of course), and her travel writing has been published in the likes of BBC Travel, CNBC, Business Insider, and more.