Planning on backpacking Parvati Valley? This guide has just about everything you could want or need to know about this magical mountain region in Himachal Pradesh, India
Parvati Valley is often called the “Goa of the North.” It’s about 12 hours of treacherous mountain roads away from New Delhi– and a tried and true backpacker’s paradise.
While it might be missing Kerala’s backwaters or Hampi’s epic historical sites, Parvati Valley sure makes up for it with its greenery & snow-capped mountains.
Located in the state of Himachal Pradesh, Parvati Valley is a welcome respite from the unbearable heat that plagues the majority of the Subcontinent for months out of the year.
While this tiny town and its surrounding areas are highly frequented by domestic and Israeli tourists, it seems to be written off or unheard of for the average tourist in favor of the (very) beaten Golden Triangle route. But for those not in the know -if you’re keen on epic mountain views and relaxed vibes, this region of India should definitely be on your radar.
The main hub of Parvati Valley is known as Kasol, and is reachable through a mildly treacherous route through the foothills of the majestic Himalayas. The laid-back mountain Mecca is a traveler’s paradise: from LGBT travel in India, to backpacking, to solo travel, and everything in between, you can find acceptance and community in Parvati.
It serves as a gateway to various other villages and towns in the area, while providing its own entertainment in the form of hashish, mountain air and life-changing food (that’s not an exaggeration- the best dessert experience of my life occurred here, and trust me- I’m not new to the dessert game).
Back when we were researching our route, finding comprehensive information on this area wasn’t impossible- but it was nowhere near as straightforward as finding information on Pai, Thailand for instance.
So that’s where we come in! Read on for everything you need to know about visiting India’s laidback, mountainous hippie-haven that is Parvati Valley.
Jump to
- Best time to visit Parvati Valley
- How to get to Parvati Valley
- Kasol
- Chalal
- Tosh
- Rasol
- Malana
- Manikaran
- Pulga, Tulga & Kalga
- Kheerganga
- Grahan
- Practical Info about Parvati Valley
Parvati Valley Travel Guide
When to take a Parvati Valley trip
This is perhaps the most important piece of information to know before planning your trip. Considering I was given “alternative facts” regarding the ever so important (and unpredictable) factor of weather, I cannot be happier to serve the tea.
Unlike most of India, Parvati Valley and its surrounding areas get very cold and do experience snowfall in the winter, which can affect bus schedules and road openings.
To experience the best Parvati Valley weather, you should head up between April – Beginning of July or Mid- September-October.
While all guesthouses and restaurants remain open in July and August, these months are awfully wet as the monsoon washes over Himachal.
Unfortunately, I was mistakenly informed that the best time of year was May-August and thus seldom saw the sun during my visit in late July 2018.
But when I revisited late June 2019, there were significantly more clear days. And while you can still have fun during the monsoon, you will have much more DRY, sunny fun if you avoid these particular months.
While it is possible to visit in the winter, many hostels and restaurants close down during these months and bus/ flight schedules become more weather dependent.
Parvati Valley is unique within India seeing that it experiences four seasons- temperatures dip to as low as 0 C (32 F) in the winter and climb up to the mid 20’s (80’s F) in the summer.
Where is Parvati Valley?
Parvati Valley is located in the state of Himachal Pradesh. The valley runs eastward from the confluence of the Parvati River with the River Beas, and is generally said to start once you head away from the city of Bhuntar.
Major villages and towns in the valley include: Jari, Malana, Mateura, Kasol, Chalal, Chojh, Grahan, Manikaran, Barsheni, Pulga, Tulga, Kalga and Tosh.
How to reach Parvati Valley from Delhi
Your journey through the valley will start in Kasol- here are the five ways that travelers can get there, all varying in price and duration of journey.
By car:
This method is most commonly employed by domestic tourists and obviously has many benefits. Driving yourself means being able to stop where and when you want, and only have to pay for gas and taxes when crossing state borders.
If traveling from Delhi like many do, you will have to cross through Haryana and Punjab before finally reaching Himachal.
I would not recommend driving in the Himalayas unless you have prior experience driving in India, as the ways of the road are quite different from anywhere else and can be dangerous for those unaccustomed to it.
By motorbike:
The most adventurous and freedom-filled way to embark on your Parvati valley trip, dozens of motorbikes can be found climbing the many kilometers of hills.
Even more so than a car, this is definitely only for those with significant motorbike experience (scootering in Thailand definitely does not count.)
By bus:
For those without their own transport, this is by far the most economical way to reach Parvati. This overnight sleeper bus journey takes anywhere from 10-14 hours depending on delays and road conditions.
Your best booking option is India’s redbus where fares are anywhere from 900- 1500 rupees one way. ($12-$20). Local buses also ply from Delhi- Bhuntar, though don’t expect comfort. You can check HRTC (Himachal Pradesh’s state transport corporation) bus times here.
It’s important to note that these buses do not go directly to Kasol- they stop at Bhuntar, a small town approximately 32 km away. From Bhuntar, local buses leave starting at 5:30 AM about once every hour in the direction of Manikaran.
Take this to Kasol for 50 rupees (68 cents). Alternatively, a local taxi from Bhuntar will cost about 300 rupees ($4) (on the low side, that is).
Tip: Keep in mind that the SAME bus that goes all the way from Delhi to Manali can be used to reach Parvati, you would just need to get off at Bhuntar, and then head to Kasol as mentioned above.
By private taxi:
For those fearful of driving on Himachal’s roads in a giant bus, there is also the option of a private taxi. This is the best option for those who may not want to drive at night but do not want to take a flight.
A private taxi from getmecab proved to be reliable and cost 8327 rupees ($114). You will be able to stop whenever you want, but also might have to deal with an unsafe or tired driver. There is also understandably more traffic during the day.
By plane:
Flying will cut a half day’s journey down to one hour. One flight leaves from Delhi daily at 6:45 am and lands in Kullu, which is about 1.5 hours from Kasol. You would need to arrange a private taxi to reach Kasol from the airport.
During high season, flights are around 9500 rupees ($131) if booked a few weeks in advance.
We tried to book one a few days in advance and the price soared to over 20,000 rupees ($300+). Be aware that this route is often cancelled or delayed due to the unpredictable weather of the mountains.
Best places to stay in Kasol, Parvati Valley
Accommodation in Kasol can be a bit pricey compared to other parts of India, but still well within a backpacker’s budget.
While booking ahead may be the best option in the high season, not all hostels/guesthouses have online booking set up so don’t be afraid to shop around when you arrive.
Moreover, prices on booking.com are extremely inflated so if you are doing so in advance, use Hostelworld or goibibo.
Your first order of business when choosing lodging is to decide if you want to stay within the town of Kasol or make the short trek to Chojh village, which is situated about twenty minutes from the main bus stop in Kasol across a rickety bridge.
Kasol has numerous hostels, guesthouses and even fancy ish hotels. Do you love camping? Don’t fret- Chojh has numerous “ready to go” camp sites and there are several other alcoves within the town made just for pitching your own tent! (Definitely the cheapest way to go friends!)
- Shanti Café & Guesthouse– We stayed here and cannot recommend it enough. For 1000 rupees a night ($13), you get a double room with ensuite bathroom, beautiful views sans any vehicle noise, and incredibly fun and friendly owners. If you’re looking for great vibes, trippy decorations and good food look no further. Boom!
- The Hosteller Kasol: – Located right at the beginning of town, this popular hostel offers great views (are you seeing a theme yet?) and boundless opportunities to meet other travelers. However, for 1000 rupees a night ($12) in the summer for a dorm it is a bit on the high side for those trying to keep costs down. Beware that during the prime tourist season (May-July) it can fill up quickly
- Nomads Hostel Kasol- A steal for any backpacker, Nomads has dorm beds for around 500 rupees a night ($6). Located in Choj near the Shanti café, it also has the benefits of being well away from any noise and entrenched in the natural environment. Even during the monsoon, this place was full so be sure to book online in advance to get a bed!
- Hamsa Homestay– Settled on a quiet street near Kasol’s main bus stop, Hamsa has cheap rooms ranging from 300 rupees- 500 rupees depending on if you want your own bathroom or not.
Where to eat in Kasol, Parvati Valley
Kasol, like all of India, is a foodie paradise teeming with incredible cafes and restaurants. Whether you are craving traditional Indian food, Israeli dishes, or street fried momos, Kasol has you completely covered.
While street food is sadly sparse here, the following places will still fit in all traveller’s budgets.
- Sunshine Café– Home to the most incredible dessert I’ve ever had in my life, (no really, the Mars Bar is THAT good) the Sunshine Café is abound with everything from Nepali Platters to Israeli Schnitzels. The rasta vibes encourage a cheeky smoke, so don’t be surprised if you unintentionally find yourself in here for longer than planned. While being a great place to meet other travellers, Sunshine’s staff was fabulous too. (Beware that it shuts its doors for the winter season!) Expect to pay around 365 rupees/ $5 per person for a generous portion.
- Evergreen Café– Like Sunshine, this place was so good we returned multiple times throughout our stay. A conglomeration of hashish smokers and families, Evergreen has something for everyone’s palate. Focusing on Indian and Israeli cuisine, you can expect to pay 500 rupees/ $7 max for a large meal.
- Jim Morrison Café– Named after the famous Jim Morrison, this café is a quiet, chill hangout. Located in a bit of a secluded spot off the main Manikaran Road, be sure to turn onto the trail near the Sun n Wind Hotel– google maps had us searching for an hour to find it!
- King Falafel– Perhaps the best value Israeli food in Kasol, King Falafel is delicious and relatively affordable compared to other cafes in town. Many plates cost 200 rupees or a bit less here.
Read Next: 102 Incredible Indian Street Food Dishes
Places to visit in Parvati Valley
While some of these spots in Parvati Valley can be taken as day trips, some require at least a one night’s stay. From experience, whether you plan to spend the night or not, always prepare for the former as you never know where the day will take you!
There’s so many things to do in Parvati Valley that you could easily spend a month here, but a week is enough to check out some of what it has to offer.
Chalal Village
A small village accessible via a 30 minute walk from Kasol, Chalal is easy enough for any traveler visiting Parvati Valley. If you’re keen on forest walks, peaceful surroundings, and sweet views, Chalal is the place for you!
How to get to Chalal
In the middle of Kasol near the bus stop, you will find a red bridge a bit behind the main road. Cross this bridge, and follow the tree covered alpine path adjacent to the Parvati river. Despite Google Map’s frequent inaccuracies, you can’t miss it!
Where to Stay in Chalal
- Freedom Cafe– Well known as a tasty restaurant, Freedom also has rooms ranging from 600-800 rupees depending on your haggling skills
- Paaras House– This guesthouse, tucked away in a quiet corner of the town close to the start of the Rashol trek, had great views and provides basic meals and teas at an extra charge. Expect to pay 500 rupees a night for a double with an attached bathroom.
Where to Eat in Chalal
Upon arriving into the village, you might pass by some small corner style food shops. At first glance, it might appear this is all there is – but never fear- there actually is a great food option in Chalal, and despite being the only one, it is anything but a last resort!
- Freedom Cafe– Essentially right along the path from the entrance to Chalal, Freedom Cafe offers some great bites and great views from its dining area. Not only was the food incredible, but its owner, Avinash, ended up being a great contact who helped us arrange accommodation at his family’s home in Delhi. Definitely give this place an hour or two!
Tosh Village
A quiet village within the clouds, Tosh valley musn’t be missed on your Parvati Valley excursion. The roadless little town is full of friendly locals and, if you’re lucky, (i.e visiting outside of the monsoon) unparalleled views of the snow-capped Himalayas.
The best time to visit Tosh is between April- Early July or September-October.
How to get to Tosh
Located 21 km from Kasol, it is possible to visit Tosh in just one day ( we did it ourselves.) However, looking back, if you have the time it is well worth your while to stay the night! You can make it there easily by…
By Bus:
By far the most affordable option, take the local bus from Kasol to Barsheni. From there, you will have to hike 2.5 km to reach Tosh valley since most if not all buses do not go all the way up to its entrance.
For only 50 rupees/ 70 cents, it is well worth the questionable roads. Bus times are irregular so be sure to check with locals or others at the bus stop for an updated schedule.
By Taxi:
If you’re not gung-ho about the bus, it is quite easy to get a taxi to take you round trip all the way up to Tosh and back.
Where to Stay in Tosh
Tosh has less accommodation options than Kasol but still has several options worth your while. Don’t worry about booking in advance- check out these places when you arrive and see which one you like the best.
- Pink Floyd Cafe & Guesthouse- The highest point in the village, and perhaps the best views, this guesthouse is your best bet if Parvati hash and snow-capped scenes call to you. A double room will run you about 1000 rupees/ $14 per night.
- Shiva Mountain Cafe Tosh– An alternative to the Pink Floyd, Shiva Mountain also offers impressive views and affordable eats. Expect to pay about 1000 rupees/ $14 per night.
- Shiva Moon Guesthouse– Yet another accommodation option in Tosh, Shiva Moon is a tall lime green building that you cannot miss. Check with reception for the most updated rates!
Where to Eat in Tosh
From a foodie’s perspective, Tosh isn’t the best place to eat in Parvati Valley, but you can still satisfy the munchies at any of the various cafes. Tosh also has some unmarked local shops that are worth checking out for a small snack or treat.
- Pink Floyd Cafe & Guesthouse- Decent food that’s very convenient especially if you choose to stay at their guesthouse. A full meal will cost about 240 rupees/ $4.
Rashol Village
A three-hour hike from Chalal, Rashol (sometimes spelled Rasol) is a very quiet and small village that is worth the trek.
Rashol is known for charas that rivals the infamous Malana Cream— the village’s entire economy is truly built around it. Consisting of only 100 homes, Rashol is the perfect alternative for those who want to truly get off Parvati Valley’s beaten track.
How to get to Rashol
Once you reach Chalal, a 30 minute walk from Kasol, take a left at forbidden temple. Real talk: visiting Rashol might be one of the hardest of all the things to do in Parvati Valley.
Why? It can only be accessed via a 3-4 hour very steep (but well marked) trek, though that time frame largely depending on your fitness/ sobriety level at the time.
Along the Rashol trek, Many arrows line the clear marked trail, and a sign with ‘Magic Rashol’ written on it will signal you’re almost at your magical destination.
If you start early, it is well within possibility to return to Kasol by nightfall, but due to the steepness, I’d definitely recommend staying at least a night to enjoy the views, chai, and perhaps some Parvati Valley hash!
Where to stay in Rashol
Accommodation in Rashol is limited, but on the bright-side, every option is a budget guesthouse or homestay that will cost 200-400 rupees/ around $4.
Explore the options, but don’t expect more than a large room fit for 4-5 people and a shared washroom. We stayed at Timy’s and paid 300 rupees in June 2019.
Where to eat in Rashol
Many guest houses have an attached kitchen where you can make your own food. If cooking ain’t your thing, it is also possible to buy food within the accommodations as well.
Some places are extremely expensive, but Timy’s was quite affordable when compared to Kasol’s cafes.
For those keen on alcohol- be aware that it is not served in Rasol, however the village is in no way lacking in its supply of hashish.
Malana
Infamous for its creamy hashish, unique locals and remote location, if we could only pick one place to visit in Parvati Valley, Malana would be it.
Visiting this ancient village is like a taking a step back in time; the villagers lead simple existences on a hill-top cut off from anywhere else.
In a place literally above the clouds, vast fields of the marijuana plant surround the village, and wafts of smoke and mountain air mystify the atmosphere.
Legend has it that the Malanese are descendants of Alexander the Great, and don’t even consider themselves to be Indians. Wild right?
Keep in mind that these interesting folk are superstitious of outsiders, and forbid any traveler from touching them or their property. In the haze you may find yourself in upon arrival do not forget this, or expect to pay a 2000 rupee fine.
Where to Stay in Malana
In July 2017, it was incorrectly reported that Malana is off limits for visitors. As of 2019, this was not the case, and in fact, as we learned never was.
The rule change originally applied to visitors staying overnight in the village, but visits in their entirety were luckily never banned! To our surprise, it actually IS possible to stay in Malana, albeit a bit away from and above the village.
- Goonj Hotel – Seated at the top of the village, this guesthouse offers stunning views, simple yet satisfying accommodation, and tasty eats. Moreover, this is the only option that is actually in Malana rather than at the bottom of the hill it sits upon. Expect to pay about 200-400 rupees for a simple shared space.
- Ayoya Malana-Shiva Cafe – While not actually in the village, Ayoya is located at the very start of the trek up the hill. For 1200 rupees / night, you can experience the luxury of a private double room. Wifi and food are located here as well!
- Dragon Guest House Malana– Also located in the village, albeit at the very top, Dragon Guesthouse is the oldest and most well known. Conflicting information led us to believe it was closed, but it is in fact open and accepting guests. Options range from sleeping pads to double beds- inquire when you arrive for the most up to date rates!
Where to eat in Malana
Because of the villagers taboos regarding outsiders, restaurants and cafes like those in other Parvati Valley villages do not exist here. But hold up- no need to fear starvation!
The three guesthouses mentioned above all offer cooked food to order. From experience, Goonjs’ was worth every cent. Expect to pay 100 rupees for a meal.
Parvati Valley Hash
It’s no secret that Malana (and Parvati Valley in general) is famous for its hashish- it is the backbone of the villagers’ economy and a way of life.
While we don’t condone drug use, “friends” of ours (that are definitely not us) have sampled the cream and say it is worth the extra expenditure.
The two main types of hashish sold here are, of course, Malana Cream- widely proclaimed to be the best stuff in the world- and another variety known as Red Ice hash. Both can be easily obtained for 3000 rupees for a tola (10 grams).
Police checkpoints outside of the village area are common, so be careful when transporting your goods out of the village! In July 2018, we did not encounter any such checkpoints or law enforcement yet this shouldn’t be considered the rule.
Don’t be afraid to ask for a sample, as the various Malanese hawking their cream to you often don’t mind (or so we are told ;)
Manikaran
Take a thirty-minute walk from Kasol along the main road and you will find yourself in the spiritual epicenter of Manikaran. Home to the Gurdwara Shri Manikaran Sahib, Sikhs from all throughout India and beyond flock here to bathe in its holy hot springs.
Gaggles of young men can be seen fearlessly motorbiking up the Himalayas to reach this small, yet important place, as well as families and villagers journeying from just about anywhere you can imagine. To see a bit of culture and religion, visiting Manikaran, and more so the Gurdwara, is an interesting change of pace from Kasol’s hippie haze.
How to Get to Manikaran
Seeing as though Manikaran is the town closest to Kasol, arriving couldn’t be easier. Based off of how lazy you feel, choose from one of the following.
By bus:
Local buses run to and from Manikaran from Kasol’s main bus stop. For 50 rupees, you’ll be happily at your destination in less than 10 minutes.
By Foot:
Save your 50 rupees AND do your cardiovascular system a favor by embarking on a quick, brisk walk instead. A straight shot from the main bus stop in Kasol you will find yourself at the entrance to the Gurudwara in a half an hour or less.
Where to stay in Manikaran
Although no guesthouses or hotels exist, the kindness of the Sikhs is shown in that anyone visiting the Gurdwara can stay for free in one of their dozens upon dozens of rooms. While they would not turn anyone away if they have the space, be aware that preference must be given to those, especially families, that have trekked thousands of kilometers to reach this holy site. If you’re reading this, you are most likely a backpacker and thus, Kasol is well and good and only a few km away!
Where to Eat in Manikaran
We originally went to Manikaran in search of food, completely unaware of the spiritual detour we were about to take. What it is lacking in traditional restaurants is made up for by the hospitality of the Gurdwara.
Any and all visitors, regardless of religion or nationality, can enjoy a daily free lunch, courtesy of this special site. All food is cooked with the boiled water from the sacred holy springs, which if nothing else gives a good omen! Be advised that while anyone can enter, dressing appropriately is a must.
Pulga, Tulga & Kalga
This trio of remote villages can be found via a short hike from Barsheni. As more and more people flock to Parvati Valley, this set of triplets has remained peaceful. Give yourself at least 3 days to spend in this area- one village per day should be your maximum (although its possible to get stuck here for weeks- don’t say we didn’t warn you!)
How to get to Pulga (and Tulga…. And Kalga)
The three villages are connected to one another by non motorable roads, meaning the only way to traipse between them is on foot. The riplets are all approximately 30 minutes apart, and It’s wise to explore them in this order, unless backtracking is your thing. To get to the beginning of the trek…
By bus:
Take the local bus from Kasol to Barsheni, the same stop that leads to Tosh. As always, this is the most economical and for foreigners, the most worthwhile: buses in India are like taking a shot of culture straight to the face. The relatively short ride will set you back 50 rupees/ 70 cents.
By taxi:
If you’re afraid of the bus or would prefer some privacy, a taxi ride will cost you 300-500 rupees depending on your haggling skills.
Where to Stay in Pulga Valley
Pulga is known for its so called “fairy forest,” a dense wooded famed for its natural beauty and ability to transport trekkers into another world (literally and sometimes… psychedelically speaking as well). The rustic village is abound with numerous guesthouses, cafes and homestays perfect for enjoying some Parvati hash. While many are unmarked and not listed online, you can’t go wrong with:
- Boom Shankar Cafe & Home Stay: Boasting a rooftop cafe and delights to excite any traveling hippie, this guesthouse is run by a pair of friendly locals and is one of the largest guesthouses in the village. A room with a shared bathroom will run you anywhere from 100-500 rupees per night depending on the season.
- Blue Heaven: Maybe I’m biased, but I’m willing to argue that Blue Heaven has some of the best views in the village. Situated a bit above the rest of the guesthouses and homes, Blue Heaven is close to the famous Fairy Forest and serves excellent food. We paid 400 rupees a night for a comfortable room with a bathroom and hot water.
Where to eat in Pulga Valley
Food can be found in all of the guesthouses, as well as many cafes Many cafes cater to Israeli cuisine, but don’t freak out as traditional Indian fare is still abound. All of the following serves food for no more than 300 rupees for a meal-even if you find yourself on an unplanned detour you will surely come across one of the following.
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- Baba’s Cafe
- Koala Cafe
- Fairy Cafe
- Devraj Cafe
Where to Stay & Eat in Tulga
Tulga is the least populated, and least visited out of the three. Accommodation consists of homestays, however many travelers choose to only spend the day here on their way to Kalga. Food options are also limited to local invitations or small shops. Let us know in the comments if you had any particularly grand homestay experiences here!
Where to Stay & Eat in Kalga
The last destination on this tour, Kalga is famous for its apple orchards and secluded mountain views. Like its siblings, homestays and guesthouses are numerous, with most not listed online. These range in price from 200-1000 rupees.
Parvati Valley’s Kheerganga Trek
This sacred place is said to be the spot where Lord Shiva meditated for 3,000 years. A 9-10km trek, Kheerganga rewards those who make the journey with beautiful waterfalls, forests and seeing as you’re in Parvati Valley, of course some sweet mountain views.
Of course, the final delight is bathing in the holy hot springs that Shiva himself frequented long ago. While we haven’t made the trek (yet!) you can check out this epic guide to the Kheerganga Trek for all the need-to-knows !
Grahan
Grahan Village is a magical, hidden hamlet hidden amongst the hills 5-6 hours above Kasol. The trek is longer than it is steep, and takes travelers through a beautiful hike alongside the Grahan River. Grahan apparently used to be located close to Malana, until leaders decided to move it to its current location some 500 years ago.
Due to its distance, the village is much quieter and less visited than some others- making it the perfect place to disconnect and appreciate the delectable beauty of the valley. There’s not much here in the way of sights- but the viewpoint from above the village is not to be missed at sunset!
Where to Stay in Grahan
We stayed at Blue Heaven, a quiet, affordable guesthouse with basic rooms and excellent views of the village. We paid 300 rupees for a double- but don’t expect more than a mattress on the floor.
Parvati Valley Practical Information
If you’ve made it this far, you know almost everything about this magical valley. But besides the big stuff, a bunch of smaller things can make or break your trip- so keep these in mind as you prepare to hit the hills.
Internet/Wifi
While wifi is essentially a lost cause, Airtel works well in much of the region, including remote Malana. As of 2019, Airtel worked well everywhere except in Grahan and Rashol. While Grahan had no service whatsoever, Rashol had intermittent basic signal that at least worked for WhatsApp.
ATMS
The only ATM in Kasol is almost never functioning, so make sure you come prepared with extra cash unless you want to use a card swiping service that takes a 3-5% service fee. Manikaran also has a working ATM, but when we tried to use this in July 2018 we discovered this is only for those with Indian bank cards. Jari, about 10 km before Kasol, also has a working ATM that does work for international cards.
A Hash Smokers Guide to Parvati Valley
Hashish is a fact of life in Parvati Valley, and unless you are a family/ elderly you will undoubtedly run into it or be offered it during your time here. While we don’t condone drug use, we do condone informing others about responsible drug use.
Be aware that while hashish is similar to ganja as they come from the same plant, they are not one in the same- hash tends to give a more relaxed body high than what you’re used to with flower.
But where to buy? Anywhere you go in Parvati Valley, you’re sure to run into someone on the street low-key hawking their illicit wares- especially in small villages like Malana and Rashol. In Grahan Village, hash is also pretty easy to come by.
The easiest way to get some Parvati Valley hash would be through your guesthouse owner or through a waiter at one of the valley’s many hippie-cafes. From what I’ve been told, it’s easier to find hashish than stay away from it in Parvati. There is also hash in Kasol, and I’ve heard it can be acquired at virtually any “hippie” cafe.
But despite the millions of marijuana plants you’ll see around, in Parvati Valley “weed” as it’s known in the west doesn’t really exist, so all hashish is smoked with tobacco. If you’re not keen on tobacco, be sure to bring your own alternative mixture.
The most important thing to know, as with lighting up anywhere outside of Amsterdam, is that police checkpoints DO happen. If you purchase some Parvati Valley hash, try to keep it in one place- but if you must transport, be smart as some have been searched, leading to a very unwanted fine.
Finally! We’ve made it to the end. Hopefully now you’re a bit more prepared for your adventure to Parvati Valley. Have any other questions? Did something change ? Let me know below!
Samantha is the founder of Intentional Detours. Originally from the USA, she’s been backpacking the world since 2017, and is passionate about slow, adventure travel that puts local communities first. She has visited 19 countries and has been living in the Karakoram Mountains of Asia’s Hunza Valley since 2021. She’s super passionate about helping people get off the beaten path anywhere (on a budget of course), and her travel writing has been published in the likes of BBC Travel, CNBC, Business Insider, and more.
Wow awesome guide of Parvati Valley you have given a breif info. Thank You for sharing!
Thanks Nishi! I’m glad you found it useful :D
Hi, I really enjoyed your post describing a wonderful part of the world where I spent three months in 1976 (July – September). Naturally, things in Parvati were very different then. Indeed, not that many people actually ventured up the valley, with most travelers/freaks/whatever heading to Manali (which I enjoyed as well) instead. In the Parvati valley, I like everyone else I met, stayed in Manikaran. There was no regular accommodation as such. Instead, with luck, you might be able to rent a room in a villager’s house for the next three months. The first day or so I’d crashed on the floor of the very welcoming Sikh temple. Believe it or not, Manikaran was actually a truly wonderful place at the time, nothing remotely like the hideous, unbelievably fucked up concrete mishmash of a village/town it later became. I almost wept when I watched a number of YouTube clips recently showing contemporary Manikaran overrun by the masses (that’s overpopulation for you!). And the traffic! Again, beyond fucking belief (pardon the language but witnessing the dramatic changes and even thinking about them gets me going). In 1976 there were very few vehicles around. An old shaking hulk of a bus made the trip up from Bhuntar once a day, or perhaps twice, I can’t recall. Anyway, having made the trip you had to walk to Manikarn village from the end of the Bhuntar road, cross a bridge over the Parvati River, which at that time of year was a roaring, raging torrent, arriving at the Sikh temple, then quite simple and beautiful in its own way, as was the glorious pool, and finally into the village proper. There was no electricity, although I think the temple may have had its own generator which provided the building with electricity for a few hours in the evening. There was a single chai shop, the only place in the village where you could buy a limited range of food: an excellent dahl, equally good chapattis, tea of course, and the milk and melted sugar Indian sweet – barfi. Since it was India I think they may have also had little bags of peanuts. Anyway, that was the extent of my diet for the whole three months. Living in Manikaran then was very Spartan-like and, surprisingly not bad at all. The hot spring pool was quite exceptional – except at times when it got too hot to bathe (the water temperature varied considerably). Some stoned American guy showed up one night from Manali, saw the pool, goes ‘wow!’ undressed and leapt in, without first checking the water temperature. It was extremely hot. I can still hear his screams. Some people! I can’t think of anywhere else in India at the time where you could take a warn leisurely bath and keep so scrupulously clean. Well, most of the time.
Almost every westerner who traveled in the area was very keen on his, mainly his as there weren’t that many western women about the mountains in those days, charas. As you know the herb grows naturally almost everywhere from Shimla (where I first spied some growing in the middle of town) northwards; it’s a weed after all. I’m sure I must have been to Kasol because once I went on a long walk from Manikarn about half way to Bhuntar. But I never heard the name at the time or of various other places you mention – Rashol, Malana, etc. Indeed, I can’t remember anyone else I met or traveled with who ever spoke about these places though I wouldn’t be surprised if an intrepid freak or two happened visit them. Those ‘scenes’ (with guesthouses, restaurants, treks, etc. etc.) obviously developed later on as growing numbers of people visited the area. But in those days Manikaran was about it.
In September, when the charas rubbing season began the friendly locals would be out and about working away gradually producing nice little fingers of soft, pliable dope. At the time the charas/hashish from the entire region was usually referred to as Manali hash and people (westerners) would come up to the mountains at the end of the monsoon and buy whatever they could and take it down to Goa to sell.
To continue – back then there was no such thing as ‘Malana Cream’ – that’s just some typical modern form of ‘branding’ I would imagine – along the lines of ‘Purple Haze’ or ‘California Sunshine’ in the acid days of the late 60s early 70s, or ‘Buddha sticks’ for Thai ganja in the 70s and 80s. No doubt this ‘MC’ is very fine shit, but you never got anything less than superb smoke in Himachal Pradesh back in the day.
At one point not long before I left the mountains we (me and two English friends) walked up to Keerganga (or however you spell it). A fabulous experience. We stopped overnight at Tosh, perhaps, or some other nameless (for us) village which had extraordinary views of snow capped peaks in the distance. Then wending our way up through stands of deodar pines, over streams, passing by waterfalls, and dodging goat herders taking their flocks down to lower pastures etc. etc. We didn’t see any other travelers on our ‘trek’ either up or down the valley, although we met a couple of Americans up at the hot spring at Keerganga. There was also an Australian guy who was living in a cave above the springs – he’d been there for quite a while (on his own, non-dope trip) and was rather reclusive. We stayed just one night. Amazing, a perfectly clear star filled sky – the mountains soaring up right before us. The weather grew a bit nippy after the sun disappeared. Foolishly I hadn’t taken my sleeping bag with me. Luckily one of the Americans had a spare ‘space blanket’ – a type that had only recently been developed – a large sheet of shiny foil – large enough to wrap yourself in. Without that I wouldn’t have slept a wink even with the aid a few nicely packed chillums. The next day we casually walked back down to Manikaran. I stayed a few more days in the village, brought a few ounces of very fine charas from some expert lady rubbers which I took with me to Delhi (no police checkpoints etc.in those days – although I did have trouble with the law on a train on the plains out of Patna before heading up to the mountains, but that’s another story), sold the lot to some other travelers and bought a ticket back to Kathmandu and then on to Bangkok which had served as a hub for my travels over the previous couple of years. Happy days – another time, another century. Bom Shankar. Bombulay.
This is the best comment I’ve ever received. What a world this must have been…
Wow! What a fabulous story. It must have been paradise. Thankyou for sharing it.🙂
Nice and informative article
Thank you so much! I’m glad you found it useful :)